Getting On The Road

getting your new bicycle ready to ride takes about 30 minutes and can be done easily at home

TOOLS NEEDED: flat head & cross head screwdriver, adjustable spanner, flat head pliers, 4,5 & 6mm allen key, 3in1 or WD40 protective spray oil

  1. pedals

    Using a standard adjustable spanner, screw the black foot pedals onto the bicycle pedal arms. L and R is stamped at the threaded end of the pedal - L goes on the side of the bike stand and R goes on the side of the chain. Please note the reverse thread on the left pedal.
    Attach seat to seat post. Slide the seat post into the seat post hole to the required height and tighten the bolt provided.

  2. seat

    Attach seat to seat post and tighten bolt firmly. Slide the seat post into the seat post hole to the required height and tighten the bolt provided.

  3. handlebars

    Lighlty oil and slide handlebars into the bicycle stem hole, with the brake levers facing forward and all cables on the outside of the handlebars. Straddle the bicycle and make sure that the forks and handlebars are completely straight. Tighten the silver handlebar stem bolt using a 6mm alan key or spanner. You can adjust the angle of the handlebars by loosening the centre handlebar bolt and swivelling the bars up or down.

  4. rear carry rack

    Attach the adjustable arms of the carry rack to the frame below the seat. Attach the bottom of the carry rack to either side of the rear wheel axle, using bolts provided.

  5. front wheel

    Squeeze the two silver front brake arms together and unhook the brake cable from where it meets the brake arm (where the word Saccon is written). This will let the brake pads part, allowing space for the wheel. Turn the bicycle upside down. Loosen the wheel nuts and slot the wheel in between forks, with the tyre tread pointing the same way as the back wheel. Gently tighten the wheel nuts evenly on both sides (do not tighten fully yet). Spin the wheel. If the wheel seems crooked, repeat the process being carefully how evenly you tighten the nuts and how the axle is placed in the cradles. Check the black brake pads are evenly and tightly aligned with the silver part of the wheel rim and re-attach the brake arms. Tighten front wheel nuts fully.
    NOTE: while the bicycle is upside down, check that the rear wheel is centrally aligned and ensure the wheel nuts are fully tightened. If the wheel looks at all off-centre, loosen the wheel nuts and rehouse the axle in the cradles. Tighten rear wheel nuts fully.

  6. lights, reflector and front mudguard

    Screw the red rear reflector onto the rear mudguard.
    Place the front mudguard inbetween the front wheel and fork and attach the top of the mudguard to the rear facing side of the front fork using the bolt provided and tighten loosely. Attach the two arms to either side of the front wheel hub using screws provided.
    Screw the clear light to the supplied steel light bracket and attach the assembly to the front of the fork using the same bolt as the mudguard. Connent it to the dynamo cables already in place.
    Screw the rear light to the carry rack, trail the wire to the drynamo and connect it the same way as the front light.
    Tighten the front fork bolt fully.

  7. IMPORTANT: gears, brakes, nuts & bolts, oiling and servicing

    Although your bicycle is inspected before being sent, we suggest you have the following parts checked by a bike shop or experienced individual before your first journey: brakes, gears, chain, cables, spoke tensions, pedal crank nuts, handlebar stem and wheel alignment. It is also a good idea to protect all exposed steel parts, including gears, with a protective spray such as WD40 or 3in1 oil.
    We also recommend that you get your bicycle checked over every 6 months by a shop and given a full service once a year.

 


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